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 Post subject: Customizing Question...but a bit odd
PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 12:14 pm 
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I've looked around online and found some good guides, but thought I'd ask here for some advice.

I've done some figures in the past, but I want to try something new.

I grew up a NASCAR fan, and a guy named Bobby Hamilton was my favorite. He drove for Richard Petty in 1997, and unfortunately they never made a 1:24 scale copy of the car he ran on a normal basis.

I have a 1997 Die Cast of a car he drove in a special race. I'm going to soak that sucker in brake fluid to strip the paint off of it, and then do an accurate repaint of the car he drove most of the season.

My question is: what is the best kind of paint to put down on a metal die cast car? This is NOT A MODEL CAR like you'd get for 12 bucks at a hobby store. This was an actual die cast car. I've already taken the body apart, popped out mirrors, etc...and then I found the slixx decals for that 1:24 scale online that I will apply after I have painted.

I've never tried this on a metal object, so looking for best method. And should I use an air brush?

Thanks!

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 Post subject: Re: Customizing Question...but a bit odd
PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 1:35 pm 
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Let me point BatStew to this thread. He actually STARTED on this kind of stuff before becoming the master JLU craftsman he is now. ;)

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 Post subject: Re: Customizing Question...but a bit odd
PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 3:29 pm 
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hi Bunger43

i highly recommend the testors 2-stage lacquer system spray paints for a job like this. i have done plenty of custom car paint jobs with testing all kinds of methods and this here works the best for a lasting result. dont use the testors enamel paint. cool thing about the lacqer is that it dries at a decent time in under 30 mins or less before you can coat again.

you did the right thing using the brake fluid to strip the car. just make sure you clean it real good with warm soapy water. then wet sand using about a 400 grit plus sandpaper. this will roughen the surface a slight bit so the paint adheres better. my buddy i work with is a master model car builder and does the same thing but he paints using actual automotive spray paint.

before spraying the car, make sure you spray the inside of the body fiirst giving it at least a couple coats. dont over coat it though because paint can drip. just light coats to give coverage. then flip the car over and suspend the car by using something taller underneath the roof of the car but balanced. dont lay it down on paper or surface because the paint will make the body stick to what it sits on and give the bottom edges ripples. spray the paint at an angle from the bottom up to get coverage to any of the details that faces downward. let it dry and then paint the rest of the body. it should take a couple coats. always let the paint dry before applying additional coats. once the car has complete coverage and looks good, then clear cote it with a wet gloss coat. this does 2 things. it helps protect the paint and gives the paint extra hardening power. note: before clearing the car, if there are any imperfections in your paint job, you can lightly wet sand that area to smooth it out and apply another coat of paint to it.

now i would let it dry and cure for at least overnight even though it can cure in under an hour before adding the decals. once you apply the decals, clear coat the car one last time to seal everything.

i highly recommend this site to purchase paint supplies. i buy from this site all the time.
http://www.hobbylinc.com/testors_hobby_ ... quer_paint

this paint can also be used on hard plastic or resin plastic. :wink:
hope that helps you out.

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 Post subject: Re: Customizing Question...but a bit odd
PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 5:55 pm 
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That's actually awesome. After wetsanding, would you prime it? Also, can you link me to a good wetsanding example? That's a bit new to me.

As for the inside...once I"ve painted it, should I tape it? That way as I'm spraying the outside it doesn't go through the window openings to the inside?


BatStew wrote:
hi Bunger43

i highly recommend the testors 2-stage lacquer system spray paints for a job like this. i have done plenty of custom car paint jobs with testing all kinds of methods and this here works the best for a lasting result. dont use the testors enamel paint. cool thing about the lacqer is that it dries at a decent time in under 30 mins or less before you can coat again.

you did the right thing using the brake fluid to strip the car. just make sure you clean it real good with warm soapy water. then wet sand using about a 400 grit plus sandpaper. this will roughen the surface a slight bit so the paint adheres better. my buddy i work with is a master model car builder and does the same thing but he paints using actual automotive spray paint.

before spraying the car, make sure you spray the inside of the body fiirst giving it at least a couple coats. dont over coat it though because paint can drip. just light coats to give coverage. then flip the car over and suspend the car by using something taller underneath the roof of the car but balanced. dont lay it down on paper or surface because the paint will make the body stick to what it sits on and give the bottom edges ripples. spray the paint at an angle from the bottom up to get coverage to any of the details that faces downward. let it dry and then paint the rest of the body. it should take a couple coats. always let the paint dry before applying additional coats. once the car has complete coverage and looks good, then clear cote it with a wet gloss coat. this does 2 things. it helps protect the paint and gives the paint extra hardening power. note: before clearing the car, if there are any imperfections in your paint job, you can lightly wet sand that area to smooth it out and apply another coat of paint to it.

now i would let it dry and cure for at least overnight even though it can cure in under an hour before adding the decals. once you apply the decals, clear coat the car one last time to seal everything.

i highly recommend this site to purchase paint supplies. i buy from this site all the time.
http://www.hobbylinc.com/testors_hobby_ ... quer_paint

this paint can also be used on hard plastic or resin plastic. :wink:
hope that helps you out.

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 Post subject: Re: Customizing Question...but a bit odd
PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 7:49 pm 
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if you order the paint from here, try this sanding pack out. http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tes/tes8812.htm

it works well and you get 2 of each grit size. just wet the sandpaper with water and sand a little bit and wet it again and keep repeating it.

im not sure what the car looks like or what it is suppose to look like when painting it. so i'm not sure. if the car is going black, then you would not necessarily need primer but if its a light to medium color then i would prime it. to give it a nice color vibrant then i would prime with white. even if you wanted the inside of the body a different color, you can hand paint the inside of it. just use some model masters acrylic and some good brushes, not the testors brushes. the sealant spray will not have any effect on the hand painted areas. remember, i use all the clear coat sprays on my custom figures. dull cote is the only one i use on retail figure parts because they are softer plastic but most of the time im using resin plastic parts.

there are several different ways to go about your car painting but this is what i would do on the smaller scale diecasts.

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 Post subject: Re: Customizing Question...but a bit odd
PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2013 7:49 am 
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Batstew


This is what I currently have now, the car I'll be stripping the paint off of.

Image

And this is the paint scheme that they never made any bigger than a 1:43 scale in a diecast

Image

I could buy the plastic model and put it together, but I want the diecast. So what would you recommend as a base primer?

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